Giant Daisy Granny Square ⋆ Free Crochet Pattern
This Giant Daisy Granny Square Crochet Pattern measures 21 cm x 21 cm (8 in x 8 in), making it one giant daisy! The afghan pictured is made up of 20 granny squares.
Inspiration
I really love daisies and anywhere I go in the world I end up seeing them somewhere!
I created this design to brighten up my time spent in lockdown in Australia. I worked on this blanket for hours and loved every minute of it.
Free Pattern
The pattern is available for free in this blog post in UK terms only. For a version of the pattern in US terms, you can buy the PDF. This blog has ads so I can provide the pattern for free.
Please note: This post contains affiliate links, which means you don’t pay any extra but a small percentage goes to me if you buy through my link (thank you for supporting me!).
Ad-free PDF Version
An ad-free PDF version of the pattern in UK and US terms is available on Ravelry and Lovecrafts.
Buying the PDF version makes it easy to follow the pattern without ads and is ideal if you want to print the pattern. As a bonus, when you buy the pattern it supports my work and enables me to continue making patterns for you!
Before you get started
I highly recommend that you read the Essential Information and Additional Instruction sections before you read this pattern.
If you’ve already read them, and are returning to this page, then simply jump to the patterns using the links below.
Essential Information
The Giant Daisy Granny Square is crocheted in three sections. First the centre is crocheted using a magic ring and then 20 petals are crocheted off the centre circle. Then a border around the flower turns it into a granny square.
Difficulty
Intermediate
Materials
Yarn
The yardage below is to make an Afghan made up of 20 squares and includes yardage for joining and the border.
Yardage for one square follows.
Stylecraft Special DK (8 Py); 295 m (323 yards) per 100g; 100% acrylic
20g / 57 m / 63 yards in Yellow
580g / 1642 m / 1796 yards in White
260g / 736 m / 805 yards in Green
Yardage for One Square
This yardage includes yarn for the border.
1g / 3 m / 3 yards in Yellow
25g / 71 m / 78 yards in White
10g / 29 m / 31 yards in Green
Hook
- 3 mm (US C/2 or D/3)
I recommend Addi Swing, as it’s an ergonomic hook and it suits my style of crocheting – which is like holding a knife or buy a standard crochet hook.
Note: If you find that this size of hook is too small to go with your 8 ply yarn, feel free to use a slightly bigger hook. I like my finished work to be quite firm, so that’s why I use a 3 mm.
Other Supplies
Gauge
13 sts x 18 rows to measure 5 x 5 cm (2 x 2 in) using 3 mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook.
Sizing
One Square: 21 cm x 21 cm (8 in x 8 in)
One 4 x 5 Square Afghan including 4.5 cm (1.5 in) border: 88 cm by 110 cm (34.5 in by 43 in)
Abbreviations (UK terms)
This pattern is written in UK terms.
Ch: Chain
Dc: Double Crochet
Dc2tog: Double crochet two stitches together
Htr: Half Treble Crochet
Tbl: Through back of the loop
Tr: Treble Crochet
Dtr: Double Treble Crochet (2 yo)
Rep: Repeat
Rnd: Round
Ss: Slip stitch
St(s): Stitch(es)
Yo: Yarn over
Stitch Counts
The stitch count is indicated at the end of every round or row. Stitch counts are shown like this: (12 sts)
Repeats
Sections to be repeated are indicated within squared brackets [ ], with the number of repeats written after. If there is a repeat within a repeat, then these brackets are used: { } and the instructions will be in bold.
UK Terms
Example: Rnd 1: With Green and starting in the top of any petal, 1 ch, [dc2tog tbl (mark this petal), 7 ch, dc2tog tbl, 6 ch, {dc2tog tbl, 7 ch} twice, dc2tog tbl, 6 ch] four times. Ss into the first ch. (152 sts)
When a full row is to be repeated the instructions will be set out like this:
Rows 5 to 18: Rep row 4, 14 more times. (4 sts on each row)
Additional Instructions
Colour Changes
When changing colour, join the new yarn on the last yarn over of the previous stitch, unless otherwise stated.
Chains
- Starting Chain: Whether a 1 ch at the start of a row or round counts as a st will vary depending on the pattern, make sure to check the instructions.
- Corner Chains: Chains at corners count as stitches.
Sewing in ends
Always sew in the ends on the wrong sides of your work.
Slip Stitch Join Method
Starting in the top square, insert your hook into the middle corner chain in the right bottom corner of the square on the final round of the square border.
Then insert your hook into the corresponding corner chain on the bottom square. Yarn over and pull the thread through all loops on the hook.
Then, insert your hook into the st on the top square and then the corresponding st on the bottom square. Yarn over and then pull through all three stitches that are on the hook.
Stitch Increases
Multiple stitches worked in one stitch.
- UK Terms: “2 dc in next st”, which indicates that 2 dc stitches are worked into one stitch.
Multiple Stitch Types Worked in One Stitch
- UK Terms: When multiple stitch types are worked into one stitch, the instructions that must be worked in the next st will be put in brackets. For example: (3 dtr, 3 ch, 3 dtr) in next st.
Stitch Numbering
UK Terms
- I write with the number of stitches before the stitch, for example, 2 dc = 1 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st.
- Except for the starting chain stitches, which is written this way: Chain 11.
Turning
UK Terms
When working in rows, turn at the end of the row and then on the next row create a turning chain. For example:
Row 4: 4 dc, turn. (4 sts)
Row 5: 1 ch, 4 dc. (4 sts)
Take note of whether the turning ch counts as a st. In the example above, it does not count as a st.
Use of this pattern
Pattern Content & Images © 2017-2023 Ruth Haydock – All Rights Reserved.
All content in this pattern is the copyright and design right of Ruth Haydock. You are not permitted to sell the written instructions or images in any way, amended or as they are. You may only print this pattern out for personal use. You are allowed to sell completed items that you have made using this pattern but you must credit me as the designer of the pattern (Ruth Haydock) and provide a link to my website, ruthhaydock.com.
Pattern (UK Terms)
This pattern starts at the centre of the daisy. The 1 ch on rnd 1 of the daisy centre does not count as a st. The 1 ch after rnd 1 do count as a st.
Centre
Rnd 1: With Yellow and working into a magic ring, 1 ch (doesn’t count as a st), 5 dc. Ss into the top of the first st in the rnd. (5 sts)
Pull the short thread to close the magic ring after working the stitches into the ring.
Rnd 2: 1 ch (counts as a st), 1 dc in same st as 1 ch, [2 dc in next st] four times. Ss into the top of the first st in the rnd. (10 sts)
Sew in the end from the magic ring and cut off any excess.
Rnd 3: 1 ch (counts as a st), 2 dc in next st, [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] four times. Ss into the top of the first st in the rnd. (15 sts)
Rnd 4: 1 ch (counts as a st), 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] four times. Ss into the top of the first st in the rnd. (20 sts)
Cut yarn and fasten off. Sew in the end.
Petal
The finished Daisy has 20 petals, each worked by rejoining the yarn to the final round of the daisy centre. Each petal is made separately.
Optional: If you want fewer ends to sew in, once you’ve completed your petal, instead of cutting the yarn and fastening off, you can slip stitch down the side of the petal and into the next st on rnd 4 of the daisy’s centre, beside the petal just worked. Then follow the instructions for row 1, starting with the 1 ch. If you do this option, your petals will look different to the ones in my images.
Petal Pattern
Row 1: Join White into any st on the final round of the Daisy centre, 1 ch (does not count as a st), 2 dc in same st as 1 ch, turn. (2 sts)
From now on do not make a turning ch to start the row, I find that this creates a nicer look. If you crochet quite tightly then you may find it hard to work without a turning ch, in this case, try loosening your final yo before turning. If you still find it tricky to work without a turning ch, then feel free to create one but do not count this turning ch as a st.
Row 2: 2 dc, turn. (2 sts)
Row 3: [2 dc in next st] twice, turn. (4 sts)
Row 4: 4 dc, turn. (4 sts)
Rows 5 to 18: Rep row 4, 14 more times. (4 sts on each row)
Row 19: [dc2tog] twice. (2 sts)
Cut yarn, fasten off and sew in the ends from the start and end of the petal.
Optional: If you want fewer ends to sew in, once you’ve completed your petal, instead of cutting the yarn and fastening off, you can slip stitch down the side of the petal and into the next st on rnd 4 of the daisy’s centre, beside the petal just worked. Then follow the instructions for row 1, starting with the 1 ch.
Additional Petals
Rep instructions for the petal (rows 1 to 19) until there are 20 petals off of the Daisy centre.
Square Border
Rnd 1 of the Daisy Border is created by joining the yarn to the top of one of the petals with a 1 ch and then a “dc2tog tbl (through back of the loop)” in the top two sts of that same petal. Then chains connect the petal just worked to the next petal.
This rnd 1 is an important one, as this is when you transform the round flower into a square.
The number of chains between each petal changes slightly to make sure that the petals are spaced out in a way that will make the border square.
On rnd 2, the sts are worked into the chains and the top of the dc2togs at the top of the petals. Rnds 3 and 4 are worked into the previous round.
When changing colour, do so on the last yo.
Square Border Pattern
Rnd 1 has a repeat within the main repeat. The main repeat uses these brackets [ ], the repeat within the repeat uses these brackets { } and is bolded for clarity.
The markers at the start of the repeat on rnd 1 will help you to keep track of your place. I tend to put the marker into the petal.
The first 1 ch on rnd 1 does not count as st. When the instructions say to “dc2tog tbl”, this indicates that you are working through the back of the loops only at the top of the petal.
Rnd 1: With Green and starting in the top of any petal. 1 ch (doesn’t count as a st), [dc2tog tbl (mark this petal), 7 ch, dc2tog tbl, 6 ch, {dc2tog tbl, 7 ch} twice, dc2tog tbl, 6 ch] four times. Ss into the first ch. (152 sts)
Sew in the join end from the start of this rnd.
Rnd 2: With Green, 1 ch (counts as a st), 9 dc, [4 htr, 6 tr, 7 dtr, 6 tr, 4 htr, 11 dc] three times, 4 htr, 6 tr, 7 dtr, 6 tr, 4 htr, 1 dc. Ss into the first ch. (152 sts)
Cut the yarn, fasten off and sew in the end.
Rnd 3: With White, 1 ch (counts as a st), 11 dc, [2 htr, 6 tr, 3 dtr, 3 dtr in next st, 3 dtr, 6 tr, 2 htr, 15 dc] three times, 2 htr, 6 tr, 3 dtr, 3 dtr in next st, 3 dtr, 6 tr, 2 htr, 3 dc. Ss into the first ch. (160 sts)
Cut the yarn, fasten off and sew in the ends (join at the start of the rnd and the cut end).
Rnd 4: With Green, 1 ch (counts as a st), 15 dc, [2 htr, 4 tr, 2 dtr, (3 dtr, 3 ch, 3 dtr) in next st, 2 dtr, 4 tr, 2 htr, 23 dc] three times, 2 htr, 4 tr, 2 dtr, (3 dtr, 3 ch, 3 dtr) in next st, 2 dtr, 4 tr, 2 htr, 7 dc. Ss into the first ch. (192 sts)
Cut the yarn, fasten off and sew in the ends (join at the start of the rnd and the cut end).
Square Joining instructions
Now that you have all your squares completed, arrange them in five piles of four squares. You will be joining the squares in five strips of four.
First you will join the squares along their horizontal sides until you have five strips, then you’ll join the strips together along the vertical side to complete the blanket. You will use the slip stitch method explained below.
Join horizontal sides
Start with the first pile of squares, take two squares and line them up along one side, with one square above and one below. You will be joining the sides from right to left, with your crochet hook moving in that direction.
Note: I start my slip stitch join in the top square, if it feels more natural for you to start in the bottom square then please do.
Line two squares beside each other, one above and one below. Starting in the top square, insert your hook into the middle corner chain in the right bottom corner of the square (on the final round of the square border).
Then insert your hook into the corresponding corner chain on the bottom square. Yo and pull the thread through all loops on the hook.
Then, insert your hook into the next st on the top square and then the corresponding st on the bottom square. Yo and then pull through all three stitches that are on the hook.
Repeat the slip stitch join method along the side and finish joining the sides in the middle ch in the corner sp.
Repeat the instructions until all the horizontal sides of the squares are joined together in a strip of 4 squares. Then, repeat the instructions for all 5 strips of 4 squares.
Join Strips Vertically
Now that you have 5 strips, you will now join the strips together vertically using the slip stitch join method, see additional instructions for the step by step explanation.
Start with the first two strips on the left side of the afghan, join these using the slip stitch join method. Then continue joining the next strip to the strip just joined until the afghan is completely joined.
Sew in all ends before you start the border.
Afghan Border
The border is made up of four rnds of tr and one final in htr, alternating in White and Green. When changing colour, do so on the last yo.
There are no st counts for the Afghan Border as the sts count will vary from person to person, depending on how they pick up stitches along the sides of the afghan on the first round.
Rnd 1: With White, and starting in any corner of the afghan, insert your hook into the top of the st to the right of the 3 ch in the corner of the square. 3 ch (counts as a tr), [(2 tr, 2 ch, 2 tr) into the corner ch space. Tr into every st along the side of the afghan up to the next corner 3 ch space] three times, (2 tr, 2 ch, 2 tr) into the corner ch space. Tr into every st along the side of the afghan up to the first st in the round (3 ch). Change to Green on the last yo and ss into the top of the 3 ch.
Cut White and sew in the ends. Sew in the Green join end.
Rnd 2: With Green, 3 ch (counts as a st), 2 tr, [(2 tr, 2 ch, 2 tr) into the corner ch sp, tr along the side] three times, (2 tr, 2 ch, 2 tr) into the corner ch sp, tr along the side up to the first st (3 ch), change to White on the last yo and ss into the top of the 3 ch.
Cut Green and sew in the end. Sew in the White join end.
Rnd 3: With White, 3 ch (counts as a st), 4 tr, [(2 tr, 2 ch, 2 tr) into the corner ch sp, tr along the side] three times, (2 tr, 2 ch, 2 tr) into the corner ch sp, tr along the side up to the first st (3 ch), change to Green on the last yo and ss into the top of the 3 ch.
Cut the White and sew in the end. Sew in the Green join end.
Rnd 4: With Green, 3 ch (counts as a st), 6 tr, [(2 tr, 2 ch, 2 tr) into the corner ch sp, tr along the side] three times. (2 tr, 2 ch, 2 tr) into the corner ch sp, tr along the side up to the first st (3 ch), change to White on the last yo and ss into the top of the 3 ch.
Cut the Green and sew in the end. Sew in the White join end.
Rnd 5: With White, 2 ch (counts as a st), 8 htr, [(1 htr, 2 ch, 1 htr) into the corner ch sp, htr along the side] three times. (1 htr, 2 ch, 1 htr) into the corner ch sp, htr along the side up to the first st (2 ch), ss into the top of the 2 ch.
Cut White and sew in the end.
Ensure all ends are sewn in, now your afghan is complete!
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