The Puffin’s beak, cheeks, head, back and belly are worked in one piece and then sewn up. The wings, feet and tail are each made up of two identical knitted pieces sewn together and then sewn onto the Puffin’s body.
The pattern starts at the beak, which is made in two pieces that are then joined together to form the front of the face.
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I highly recommend that you read the Essential Information and Additional Instruction sections before you read this pattern.
If you’ve already read them, and are returning to this page to continue knitting, then simply jump to the pattern using the link below.
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Intermediate
Stylecraft Special DK (8 Py); 295 m (323 yards) per 100g; 100% acrylic
131 m / 143 yards / 45g in Black (MC)
58 m / 63 yards / 20g in White (CC1)
15 m / 16 yards / 5g in Red (CC2)
29 m / 32 yards / 10g in Orange (CC3)
3 mm (US 2.5 ), straight
26 sts x 32 rows = 10 cm (4 in) measured over St st using 3 mm (US 2.5) needles or size needed to obtain stated tension
One size: 24 cm (9.25 in) from head to toe once stuffed
Use your left needle to pick up the left side of stitch that is two stitches below the stitch on the right needle. Slip this stitch onto your left needle. Knit it through the back of the loop. Also known as a Left Lifted Increase. (See blog post)
Use your right needle to pick up the stitch that is one stitch below the stitch on the left needle, lift this stitch and slip it onto the left needle. Knit it through the front of the loop. Also known as a Right Lifted Increase. (See blog post)
Slip next st onto right hand needle, take yarn to the back of the work, slip same st back to left hand needle. Turn work.
CC1: Contrasting colour one
CC2: Contrasting colour two
CC3: Contrasting colour three
Dec’d: Decreased
K2tog: Knit two stitches together
Kfb: Knit front and back of the stitch
K-wise: Knitwise
MC: Main colour
Pfb: Purl front and back of the stitch
P-wise: Purlwise
P2tog: Purl two stitches together
PUL: Pick Up Left / Left Lifted Increase
PUR: Pick Up Right / Right Lifted Increase
Rs: Right side
Ssk: Slip slip knit (See additional instructions)
St st: Knit one row, purl one row
St(s): Stitch(es)
Tbl: Through back of the loop
W&t: Wrap and turn
Ws: Wrong side
The stitch count is indicated at the end of every round or row, unless it is very obvious for example. Stitch counts are shown like this: (12 sts)
Sections to be repeated are indicated within squared brackets [ ], with the number of repeats written after.
There is no chart for this pattern.
Follow written instructions throughout the pattern. See my How to Make up Percival the Puffin YouTube video for extra guidance. You may choose to wait until once you’ve knitted all the pieces to sew them altogether. I did this for second Puffin.
Always sew in the ends on the wrong sides of your work.
Slip next two stitches as if to knit, insert the left needle into these stitches and knit these two stitches together.
When you are knitting with more than one colour, there will be times when you need to carry the yarn not in use at the back of the work. This is known as Stranded Colorwork or Fair Isle. The unused yarn “floats” on the wrong side of the work. Carry the unused yarn behind the work by knitting over the unused yarn every three or four stitches, making sure that the unused yarn does not show through to the right side of the work.
Pattern Content & Images © 2017-2023 Ruth Haydock – All Rights Reserved.
All content in this pattern is the copyright and design right of Ruth Haydock. You are not permitted to sell the written instructions or images in any way, amended or as they are. You may only print this pattern out for personal use. You are allowed to sell completed items that you have made using this pattern but you must credit me as the designer of the pattern (Ruth Haydock) and provide a link to my website, ruthhaydock.com.
The pattern starts at the beak, which is made in two pieces that are then joined together to form the front of the face.
With CC2, cast on 2 sts p-wise. (2 sts)
Row 1 (RS): Knit.
Row 2: [Pfb] twice. (4 sts)
Row 3: Knit.
Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: K1, Pul, k2, Pur, k1. (6 sts)
Row 6: Purl.
Row 7: K1, Pul, k4, Pur, k1. (8 sts)
Row 8: Purl.
Cut CC2, leaving a long tail for sewing up the beak.
Row 9: With CC3, k1, Pul, k6, Pur, k1. (10 sts)
Row 10: Purl.
Prepare to join MC on the next row. To prevent the yarn from bunching up and deforming the beak, use the stranded colourwork technique (fair isle) for the unused colours.
Row 11: With CC3, K1, with MC, k8, with CC3, k1. (10 sts)
Row 12: With CC3, P1, with MC, p8, with CC3, p1. (10 sts)
Cut MC, leaving a 8 cm (3 in) tail and sew in the end. Continue in CC3 only.
Row 13: Knit.
Row 14: Purl.
Cut the yarn and slip sts onto a st holder.
Make the second side of the beak in the same way.
With both beak sides RS facing, slip the sts from the st holder onto the same needle as the second side. The sts will be ready to work a RS row.
Prepare to knit across both sides of the beak to join them together and knit the white cheeks of the Puffin. To prevent the yarn from bunching up and deforming the beak, use the stranded colourwork technique (fair isle) for the unused colours.
Row 15 (RS): With CC1, k8, with MC, k4, with CC1, k8. (20 sts)
Row 16: With CC1, P8, with MC, p4, with CC1, p8. (20 sts)
Row 17: With CC1, kfb, k7, with MC, k4, with CC1, k7, kfb. (22 sts)
Row 18: With CC1, pfb, p8, with MC, p4, with CC1, p8, pfb. 24 sts
Row 19: With CC1, kfb, k9, with MC, k4, with CC1, k9, kfb. (26 sts)
Row 20: With CC1, pfb, p10, with MC, p4, with CC1, p10, pfb. (28 sts)
Row 21: With CC1, kfb, k11, with MC, Pur, k4, Pul, with CC1, k11, kfb. (32 sts)
Row 22: With CC1, pfb, p12, with MC, p6, with CC1, p12, pfb. (34 sts)
Row 23: With CC1, kfb, k13, with MC, Pur, k6, Pul, with CC1, k13, kfb. (38 sts)
Row 24: With CC1, p15, with MC, p8, with CC1, p15. (38 sts)
Row 25: With CC1, k15, with MC, k8, with CC1, k15. (38 sts)
Row 26: With CC1, p15, with MC, p8, with CC1, p15. (38 sts)
Row 27: With CC1, k2tog, k13, with MC, Pur, k3, Pul, k2, Pur, k3, Pul, with CC1, k13, ssk. (40 sts)
Row 28: With CC1, p2tog, p12, with MC, p12, with CC1, p12, p2tog. (38 sts)
Row 29: With CC1, k2tog, k11, with MC, Pur, k5, Pul, k2, Pur, k5, Pul, with CC1, k11, ssk. (40 sts)
Row 30: With CC1, p2tog, p10, with MC, p16, with CC1, p10, p2tog. (38 sts)
Row 31: With CC1, k2tog, k9, with MC, Pur, k7, Pul, k2, Pur, k7, Pul, with CC1, k9, ssk. (40 sts)
Row 32: With CC1, p2tog, p8, with MC, p20, with CC1, p8, p2tog. (38 sts)
Row 33: With CC1, k2tog, k7, with MC, Pur, k9, Pul, k2, Pur, k9, Pul, with CC1, k7, ssk. (40 sts)
Row 34: With CC1, p2tog, p6, with MC, p24, with CC1, p6, p2tog. (38 sts)
Row 35: With CC1, K2tog, k5, with MC, Pur, k11, Pul, k2, Pur, k11, Pul, with CC1, k5, ssk. (40 sts)
Row 36: With CC1, p2tog, p4, with MC, p28, with CC1, p4, p2tog. (38 sts)
Row 37: With CC1, k2tog, k3, with MC, Pur, k13, Pul, k2, Pur, k13, Pul, with CC1, k3, ssk. (40 sts)
Row 38: With CC1, p2tog, p2, with MC, p32, with CC1, p2, p2tog. (38 sts)
Row 39: With CC1, k2tog, k1, with MC, k32, with CC1, k1, ssk. (36 sts)
Cut CC1, leaving a 8 cm (3 in) tail and sew in the end. Continue in MC only.
Row 40: P3tog, p30, p3tog. (32 sts)
Row 41: Knit.
Row 42: Purl.
Rows 43 to 53 are worked in short rows to make the curve of the head.
Row 43 (RS): K30, w&t.
Row 44: P28, w&t.
Row 45: K27, w&t.
Row 46: P26, w&t.
Row 47: K25, w&t.
Row 48: P24, w&t.
Row 49: K23, w&t.
Row 50: P22, w&t.
Row 51: K21, w&t.
Row 52: P20, w&t.
Row 53: K19, w&t.
Row 54: P19, p5 (picking up wrapped stitches), p1. (25 sts)
Row 55: K25, k6 (picking up wrapped stitches), K1. (32 sts)
Row 56 and all WS rows to Row 72: Purl.
Row 57(RS): K1, ssk, k26, k2tog, k1. (30 sts)
Row 59: K1, ssk, k24, k2tog, k1. (28 sts)
Row 61: K1, ssk, k22, k2tog, k1. (26 sts)
Row 63: K1, ssk, k20, k2tog, k1. (24 sts)
Row 65: K1, ssk, k18, k2tog, k1. (22 sts)
Row 67: K1, ssk, k16, k2tog, k1. (20 sts)
Row 69: K1, kfb, k16, kfb, k1. (22 sts)
Row 71: K1, kfb, k18, kfb, k1. (24 sts)
Row 73: K1, kfb, k20, kfb, k1. (26 sts)
Row 74: Purl.
Row 75 (RS): Cast on 10 sts k-wise, k36. (36 sts)
Row 76: Cast on 10 sts p-wise, p46. (46 sts)
Row 77: Knit.
Row 78: Purl.
Rows 79 and 80: Rep rows 77 and 78 once more.
The back has decreases and increases to shape the upper and lower belly.
Row 81 (RS): K1, ssk, k18, Pur, k4, Pul, k18, k2tog, k1. (46 sts)
Row 82: Purl.
Rows 83 to 88: Rep rows 81 and 82, three more times.
Row 89: K1, ssk, k14, Pur, k12, Pul, k14, k2tog, k1. (46 sts)
Row 90: Purl.
Rows 91 to 102: Rep rows 89 and 90, six more times.
Row 103: Knit.
Row 104 and all WS rows to Row 116: Purl.
Row 105: K2, Pul, k15, Pur, k12, Pul, k15, Pur, k2. (50 sts)
Row 107: K2, Pul, k16, Pur, k14, Pul, k16, Pur, k2. (54 sts)
Row 109: K2, Pul, k17, Pur, k16, Pul, k17, Pur, k2. (58 sts)
Row 111: K2, Pul, k18, Pur, k18, Pul, k18, Pur, k2. (62 sts)
Row 113: K2, Pul, k19, Pur, k20, Pul, k19, Pur, k2. (66 sts)
Row 115: K2, Pul, k20, Pur, k22, Pul, k20, Pur, k2. (70 sts)
Row 117: K2, Pul, k21, Pur, k24, Pul, k21, Pur, k2. (74 sts)
Row 118: Purl.
The bottom has increases in the middle of the rows to create a bulge for the Puffin’s bottom.
Row 119 (RS): K1, ssk, k20, ssk, k24, k2tog, k20, k2tog, k1. (70 sts)
Row 120 and all WS rows to Row 138: Purl.
Row 121: K22, ssk, k22, k2tog, k22. (68 sts)
Row 123: K1, ssk, k19, ssk, k20, k2tog, k19, k2tog, k1. (64 sts)
Row 125: K21, ssk, k18, k2tog, k21. (62 sts)
Row 127: K1, ssk, k18, ssk, k16, k2tog, k18, k2tog, k1. (58 sts)
Row 129: K1, ssk, k17, ssk, k14, k2tog, k17, k2tog, k1. (54 sts)
Row 131: K1, ssk, k16, ssk, k12, k2tog, k16, k2tog, k1. (50 sts)
Row 133: K1, ssk, k15, ssk, k10, k2tog, k15, k2tog, k1. (46 sts)
Row 135: K1, [ssk] twice, k10, [ssk] twice, k8, [k2tog] twice, k10, [k2tog] twice, k1. (38 sts)
Row 137: K1, [ssk] four times, k3, [ssk] three times, k2, [k2tog] three times, k3, [k2tog] four times, k1. (24 sts)
Row 139: K1, [ssk] five times, k2, [k2tog] five times, K1. (14 sts)
Row 140: Purl.
Cut MC, leaving a 8 cm (3 in) tail and sew in the end. Change to CC1.
Row 141: Knit.
Row 142 and all WS rows to Row 200: Purl.
Row 143: K2, Pul, [k1, Pul] four times, k2, [Pur, k1] four times, Pur, k2. (24 sts)
Row 145: K2, Pul, [k1, Pul] eight times, k4, [Pur, k1] eight times, Pur, k2. (42 sts)
Row 147: K2, Pul, [k1, Pul] four times, k30, [Pur, k1] four times, Pur, k2. (52 sts)
Row 149: Knit.
Row 151: K2, Pul, k48, Pur, k2. (54 sts)
Row 153: Knit.
Row 155: K2, Pul, k50, Pur, k2. (56 sts)
Row 157: Knit.
Row 159: K2, Pul, k52, Pur, k2. (58 sts)
Row 161: Knit.
Row 163: K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (2 sts dec’d) (56 sts)
Row 164: Purl.
Rows 165 to 200: Rep rows 163 and 164, eighteen more times.
Row counts: 165: (54 sts), 167: (52 sts), 169: (50 sts), 171: (48 sts), 173: (46 sts), 175: (44 sts), 177: (42 sts), 179: (40 sts), 181: (38 sts), 183: (36 sts), 185: (34 sts), 187: (32 sts), 189: (30 sts), row 191: (28 sts), row 193: (26 sts), row 195: (24 sts), row 197: (22 sts) , row 199: (20 sts)
Row 201: K1, ssk, k14, k2tog, k1. (18 sts)
Row 202: P1, p2tog tbl, p12, p2tog, p1. (16 sts)
Row 203: K1, ssk, k10, k2tog, k1. (14 sts)
Row 204: P1, p2tog tbl, p8, p2tog, p1. (12 sts)
Cast off.
See my How to Make up Percival the Puffin YouTube video for extra guidance.
Start joining the Puffin’s body at the beak.
With the wrong sides facing, hold the two sides of the beak together. Using mattress stitch, sew the sides of the beak up using the tails of red and orange.
Sew in all leftover ends for the beak, face and neck, this includes all Orange, Red, Black and White ends.
Next join the White cheeks to the side of the head / neck. Do this by folding the beak and cheeks downwards, with the black head / neck section behind it. Make sure that wrong sides are facing. Cut a length of black yarn, then using mattress stitch, join the white cheek to the black head / neck section. Start at the top of the white cheek and working down until the black neck section is joined under the beak. Do the same for both cheeks. Sew the two neck sections together under the beak. Stuff the head.
To sew up the belly, fold the white belly upwards towards the head and use mattress stitch to join it to the back part of the Puffin. Start at the right side of the Puffin’s belly and work around the curve making sure the stitches are evenly distributed. Stuff the Puffin when there is a small 8 cm (3 in) gap left to sew up. Finish sewing the belly and secure all ends.
With MC, embroider on the eyes in the middle of the white cheek, about 5 cm (2 in) from the beak. Adjust the position to give the Puffin the character that you want.
Embroider the eye by drawing the yarn over itself a few times and secure the end.
With MC, cast on 10 sts.
Row 1 (WS): Purl.
Row 2: K2, Pul, k6, Pur, k2. (12 sts)
Row 3 and all WS rows to Row 43: Purl.
Row 4: Knit.
Row 6: K2, Pul, k8, Pur, k2. (14 sts)
Row 8: Knit.
Row 10: K2, Pul, k10, Pur, k2. (16 sts)
Row 12: Knit.
Row 14: K2, Pul, k12, Pur, k2. (18 sts)
Row 16: Knit.
Row 18: K2, Pul, k14, Pur, k2. (20 sts)
Row 20: Knit.
Row 22: K2, Pul, k16, Pur, k2. (22 sts)
Row 24: Knit.
Row 26: K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 2 sts dec’d. (20 sts)
Row 27: Purl.
Rows 28 to 39: Rep rows 26 to 27, six more times.
Row counts: 28: (18 sts), 30: (16 sts), 32: (14 sts), 34: (12 sts), 36: (10 sts), 38: (8 sts).
Row 40: K1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. (6 sts)
Row 42: K1, ssk, k2tog, k1. (4 sts)
Row 44: Ssk, k2tog. (2 sts)
Row 45: P2tog. (1 st)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing up the wing.
With wrong sides facing, hold two wing pieces together and use mattress stitch to sew up the sides and cast on edges. Repeat for the second wing.
Sew the wings onto the body at the wing cast on edge, positioning wing 5 cm (2 in) below the white cheek, with the edge of the wing at the white belly and black body edge.
See my How to Make up Percival the Puffin YouTube video for extra guidance.
With MC, cast on 22.
Row 1 (WS): Purl.
Row 2: Knit.
Row 3 and all WS rows to Row 21: Purl.
Row 4: K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 2 sts dec’d (20 sts)
Row 5: Purl.
Rows 6 to 17: Rep rows 4 and 5, six more times.
Row counts: 6: (18 sts), 8: (16 sts), 10: (14 sts), 12: (12 sts), 14: (10 sts), 16: (8 sts).
Row 18: K1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. (6 sts)
Row 20: K1, ssk, k2tog, k1. (4 sts)
Row 22: Ssk, k2tog. (2 sts)
Row 23: P2tog. (1 st)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing up the tail.
With wrong sides facing, hold the two tail pieces together and use mattress stitch to sew together the decreasing sides of the triangles to make a pyramid shape. Do not sew the two cast on edges together.
Position the tail in between the increase and decreases lines on the Puffin’s bottom, which are the straight lines in the schematic (Image 1) and use the photo of the Puffin’s bottom for guidance (Image 1).
Sew the cast on edges to the Puffin’s bottom in an oval shape, using the schematic as a guide. Lightly stuff the tail before sewing it on completely. Finish sewing it on and secure the end.
See my How to Make up Percival the Puffin YouTube video for extra guidance.
You will begin at the base of the foot and then work over the first third of the stitches to create the first claw, then rejoin the yarn to the work to create the second and third claws.
With CC3, cast on 16 sts.
Row 1 (WS): Purl.
Row 2: Knit.
Rows 3 to 5: Work three more rows in St st.
Row 6: K2, Pul, k12, Pur, k2. (18 sts)
Rows 7 to 9: Work three more rows in St st.
Row 10 (RS): K2, Pur, k4, turn. Continue working on these 7 sts, leaving the remaining 12 sts on needle. (7 sts)
Row 11 and all WS rows to row 17: Purl.
Row 12: K2, Pur, k2, k2tog, k1. (7 sts)
Row 14: K2, Pur, k2tog, k2tog, k1. (6 sts)
Row 16: K2, Pur, k2tog, k2tog. (5 sts)
Row 18: K1, k2tog, k2tog. (3 sts)
Row 19: P3tog.
Fasten off, leaving a short tail for sewing up the foot.
With RS facing, rejoin CC3 to 12 sts remaining on the needle.
Row 1: K6, turn. Continue working on these 6 sts, leaving the remaining 6 sts on the needle. (6 sts)
Rows 2 to 4: Work three more rows in St st.
Row 5: K1, ssk, k2tog, k1. (4 sts)
Rows 6 to 8: Work three more rows in St st.
Row 9: [K2tog] twice. (2 sts)
Row 10: P2tog. (1 st)
Fasten off, leaving a short tail for sewing up the foot.
With RS facing, rejoin CC3 to the 6 sts remaining on the needle.
Row 1: K4, Pul, k2. (7 sts)
Row 2 and all WS rows to row 8: Purl.
Row 3: K1, ssk, k2, Pul, k2. (7 sts)
Row 5: K1, ssk, ssk, Pul, k2. (6 sts)
Row 7: Ssk, ssk, Pul, k2. (5 sts)
Row 9: Ssk, ssk, K1. (3 sts)
Row 10. P3tog. (1 st)
Fasten off, leaving a short tail for sewing up the foot.
With wrong sides facing, hold two foot pieces together, and use mattress stitch to sew up all the sides using the tails. Sew in all ends as you go. Position the feet on the Puffin’s bottom, between the black and white line, leaving a 4 cm (1.5 in gap) between the feet. Use the tails left from knitting the feet to sew the feet onto the Puffin’s bottom. Weave in all ends.
See my How to Make up Percival the Puffin YouTube video for extra guidance.
Percival is finished!
I had the idea for Percival when I was creating a design proposal for Knit Now magazine and the theme was “Island Life”. Percival was published in Knit Now Magazine in 2018 and was on the cover!
I’ve always wanted to see a wild Puffin, but still haven’t had the chance to. Percival reminds me that one day I will 🐧
When I lived in Australia in 2018 – 2020, I took Percival on trips with me wherever we went! Here he is at the Australian Open in 2019!
Read more about his travels in the blog post.
I would love to see your pictures of this design on Instagram, please tag me @ruthhaydock and use the hashtag #ruthhaydockdesigns
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